Tuesday, November 22, 2016

Eastward ...ho !

When the Indigo flight soared above the raining grey skies of Chennai, little did the 14 member team of East bound travelers realise that this tour will be different from the other tours of Sree Janaki Tours (SJT - www.sreejanakitours.in ), the organizers of this four day East India outing. Normally, such tours will be so stuffed with temples and other places of interest that the touring member would be left with little time to enjoy the excellent star accommodations with an ambiance that will make our sportsman  proud, whom we are used to seeing pushing their hand baggage out of the plush hotels. The touring party started enjoying from the moment the flight took off by devouring  mouth watering Idlies provided by SJT along with an earful of chat that even the brief stopover at Vizag was not felt and the flight raced fast towards Bhubaneswar, as few used the time to catch up with the lost snoozes due to the unusual early morning wake up.

When the flight landed and people clamored into the gleaming Biju Patnaik International Airport at Bhubaneswar, they were fresh to gulp the hitherto unknown terrains of the east and the first on visual feast was the famed sand art exhibit of Sudarsan Patnaik.
Bhubaneswar Airport

The enthusiastic senior citizens party straight headed to the best ask of the youth from Odisha viz., the Sun temple at Konark. Braving the glaring sun, they enjoyed the sculptural marvels of the place ably supported by the guide provided by SJT and there were pictures galore, when tried to capture all they could see and take them through their meager GBs of mobile phones.

Konark

An hour long travel to the resort at Puri was worth it as evidenced by the first sight of the ambiance of Tosali Sands (www.toshalisands.com ), where people were welcomed with traditional south Indian jasmine garland and a drink. The sumptuous lunch tended personally in the courteous presence of the Chef was enough to usher the people into the cool confines of the resort, which was all luxury cum comfort , with the facilities one could ask for.

Welcome !
After forty winks forced by the delicious lunch and early sunset expected of the eastern part of the country, the team set out to the famed Puri Jagannathar temple ( http://www.jagannath.nic.in/ ). The milling crowd on the eve of Karthika Poornima was ably managed by the logistics and guide support provided by SJT, as the town wore a festive look. The streets of Puri were too wide for imagination which was later explained that the roads have been formed to facilitate the conduct of the famed Puri Rath Yatra, where lakhs of devotees across the world congregate every year.

Puri Jagannathar Temple
Despite the presence of our local guide, the dharshan at the 800 year old temple was difficult to come by as the temple management is yet to hear of the words like 'crowd management', it appeared. Though manageable, the crowds were not properly managed giving an impression of a milling crowd, with the cops on duty chatting in leisure waiting for things to happen , for them to wield their lathis. Sincerely, the crowds at the local pradhoshams and the humongous ones at Tirumala are better managed and it is time the temple authorities focus on this to ease the pressure on the visiting devotees and tourists.  The stone work of the tower, the majestic flag atop always waving in the direction opposite to the wind, a specialty of this place, we were told were a sight to behold. The streets were nothing to crow about as they were filled with uncleared garbage, but the feel of Bhakthi was more pervading despite all these visual hiccups. At the suggestion of the well meaning guide, we refrained from even reaching for our purses, as there were waiting hands to grab anything that you not only want to offer but also intend to offer!

The next day dawned with aroma of the now popular home made decoction coffee of Ramesh, who has made it a habit of luring people to shamelessly ask for a refill after downing the first one. Then we also undertook a tour of the hotel which is complete with a swimming pool, health spa and large greenery where the swans could be seen quacking around and it was an experience to undergo. After experiencing the culinary expertise of the Chef once more, this time with a well thought of breakfast menu, the team set out out to Chilka Lake ( http://www.orissatourism.org/chilka-lake.html ), Asia's largest brackish water lake.

Chilka lake - Flight of birds

Cruising in the Chilka lake
An hour's ride from Puri took us to the boarding point, where people braving the glowing Sun with a customized cap , available for a small rent, set out in steamer boats sans the customary safety belts, which must be insisted upon as the lake is known to run deep. Around 15 minutes of Fut-Fetting through the blue waters , one is led to a small lagoon which is expected to be crowded with birds of all sorts, but we could see only flamingos , but in hundreds. On hearing our approach the birds flocked in unison , a sight to freeze your memory to reminisce and munch later, as it would refuse to leave the memory for hours to follow.

Puri private beach
Final day at Puri dawned with the team wishing the SJT creators of their Wedding Anniversary which was celebrated in simple way but with a colorful cake thoughtfully offered by the resort management. Early in the morning , the party set out to the private beach and the twilight sea, with the curling white foamy wave rising and falling steadily with the orange sun overpowering the brilliant super moon of the previous night , was an experience to be enjoyed in person rather through the binary outputs of a keyboard.

Puri beach
Dawn at the Puri beach
 The thick foliage of the forest cover dotted on either side with mounds of sands accumulated by snakes for their sojourn set the perfect setting for the day break. Rejuvenated at these natural sights, the team set out to leave Puri but not without visiting some of the notable spots at the place.

The Gundicha temple is not to be underestimated by its simple exterior but  ignoring the crazy feeling of paying a fee for getting into a temple in the land of temples, one could see some of the ancient traditions of Odisha here. But a word of caution for those likely to follow suit and travel here- Never talk to the priests there or take out your purse; they demand money as a matter of right as some of us experienced the challenge in extricating ourselves from these hungry hands.
Gundicha Temple
But the views of the ancient set of pots in the kitchen, wherein the rice in the topmost pot on top of the column gets cooked, is a must see. This is the place where Lord Jagannathar is supposed to rest when he leaves the Jagannathar temple during the ten day Rath yathra . One could also see large number of wooden wheels and when enquired we gathered that the Rath used for the yathra every year is made fresh and never the same Rath is used for the succeeding years.

The reverence to the place rubbed last evening at the Jagannathar temple refused to rub off as we headed to the Sankara Mutt, one of the four ancient mutts founded by Aadhi Sankarar, where one could also see the cot used by the holy seer.

Puri, Sankara Mutt
The entourage then proceeded to Sakhi Gopal, a small town where the deity at the temple is supposed to keep track of the visitors to Puri and inform Jagannadhar about their details.











Next spot to stop was Dhauli, where a huge standing Budha welcomes the visitors amidst milling tourist vans. After climbing some 70 odd not so steep steps one could see Budha in different postures and also view the ground where the battle of Kalinga was fought. This place is also believed to be the one where King Asoka decided to renounce arms.

Dhauli

Dhauli















After some minor purchases en route at a colorful shop in Pipli for some famed applique works , the team reached the elegant Hotel Excellency at Bhubaneswar (www.ecellencybbsr.com ). Though the dim lights at the reception did not warm the hearts initially, but the subsequent information about deployment of energy saving measures at the pathways made us clap for the initiative and the bright rooms with facilities certainly did not allow the mood to dip but only to rev up !

Picturesque Dining , Bhubaneswar Hotel 
The 1200 year old Lingaraja temple believed to be the basis on which the famed Puri temple has been designed is the first point of visit in the evening. Despite the absence of any crowd, with extensive security measures in place, people there were more keen on getting money from tourists. Its time the Temple managements across the state address this should they want the continued visit and patronage of tourists across the world. The not-so-warm reception and suspicious activities of the hovering touts  does not fit well with the popularity of the temple. Not withstanding these obstacles, the temple with its ancient Gopuram and minor minarets resembling Tiruvarur down south,  is a place one must visit.

The Sri Rama temple , we visited next was a modern temple with excellent lighting.

                                                                   


Final day of the tour started with a visit to the Muktesvara temple, which again boasts of the typical Odisha style gopuram with plenty of places to capture the beauty, for the visitors to take with them.

Mukteswar Temple, Bhubaneswar
The adjacent Kedar Gauri temple was a contrast with the later day maintenance and the Udayagiri caves were reminiscent of caves at different tours we had undertaken.

Udayagiri caves

The tour was wound up with the flight back to Chennai, with the touring parties enriched by few friends and lot more of devotion they earned with visits to the holy places. As mentioned earlier , this tour is different from other tours undertaken by these tour Managers. I recall the words of Mr Ramesh of SJT during the Ahobilum tour that 'It is more of a pilgrimage and we may need to adapt ourselves to the tough terrains of Ahobilum forests and eat whatever is available with the sole purpose of seeing the Nava Narasimhars at various abodes around the place'. None cribbed and accepted the reality and what he said.

Through this tour, we have been compensated, I feel. Odissa tour is not just a religious trip though it centers around the great temples of Puri Jagannatar and Lingaraj at Bhubaneswar. But, it has enough attractions for those young at heart through the artistic and romantic sculptures at Konarak, beautiful walking and relaxing avenues in the picturesque resort at Puri for ageing citizens, Chilka lake for the bird watchers and Ornithologists and enough scope for food lovers too !

Signing off from Bhubaneswar Hotel 
With the existing modern day facilities, it is not difficult for one to embark on such tours and there is always a debate raging questioning the need for a tour operator for such outings. But, the expectations of the current day travelers are different from those of the earlier period. All that people expect now are Good planning, friendly logistics, food that is soft on your belly and does not harm during travel, safe travel and satisfaction. One could feel that the touring party had all these factored into their satisfaction list.

I summed up my feedback , with a warning to those who would like to undertake similar tours, in the following email, I sent to Sree Janaki Tours:

ஸ்ரீ ஜானகி டூர்ஸ் மூலம் பயணம் செய்ய விருப்பமா - ஒரு எச்சரிக்கை

வீட்டுக்குத் திரும்பியபின் எதிர்பார்க்கக் கூடிய சில நினைவுகள் , நிகழ்வுகள்:

தினமும் அதிகாலையில் எழுப்பி  புது டிகாக்ஷன்  ​ காப்பி கொடுத்துப் பழக்கி விடுவார்கள் - வீட்டுக்கு வந்தால் எதிர்பார்க்க முடியாது ; கிடைத்தால் அதிர்ஷ்டம் தான்.


வெளியே வெதுவெதுப்பான வெப்பமிருந்தாலும் படுத்தால் உள்ளே போகும் மெத்தையும், கிளுகிளுப்பான குளிர்பதன வசதிக்கும், திரும்பி வந்த பின்பும் மனம் ஏங்கும்.

காலை டிபனில் அடுக்கி வைக்கப் பட்ட பண்டங்களில் நாமாக விரும்பி எடுத்துக் கொள்ளும் buffet சிஸ்டம், வீட்டில் கையில் ரொட்டித் துண்டுடன்,  கனவு தான் காண முடியம்.

மதிய உணவிற்குப் பின் ஐஸ்க்ரீமும் சூடான ஜிலேபியோ , குலாப் ஜாமுனோ கேட்டால் கன்னத்தில் குலாப் ஜாமூன் முளைக்க நல்ல வாய்ப்பு.

பொத்தானை அழுத்தியதும் காபியும் , படியை விட்டு இறங்கியவுடன் காரும் ................ நன்றாகவே கெடுத்து வைக்கிறார்கள்

சுற்றுலாவின் போது வாய்க்கு ருசியாக சாப்பிட்டு ஊர் திரும்பிய பின் எதற்க்கும் குடும்ப வைத்தியரை ஒரு நடை பார்ப்பது உசிதம் . நம் வயிற்றுக்கும் நல்லது, டாக்டரும் பிழைத்துப் போகட்டும்.

ஜாக்கிரதை

Monday, September 19, 2016

TTD .... a long way to go !

Its a known fact to every Balaji devotee that Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam (TTD)  - http://www.tirumala.org/  - which manages the hill temple is doing a wonderful job. Given that lakhs of devotees from different corners of the geography are thronging the temple, it is an uphill task for any management to satisfy everyone's needs. Not to forget about scores of VVIPs and other dignitaries, TTD has a task on hand not on a day, but everyday.

The sanitary conditions on the hill is a standing example as to how concerned they are about pilgrim welfare, while  even big temples in cities like Chennai do not provide a urinal facilities, forcing the aggrieved to relieve themselves anywhere.

Th online reservations for darshan and accommodation (https://ttdsevaonline.com) have reached such an appreciable level of support over a period of time that planning a visit to the hill temple is no more a daunting task.

The Devasthanam has a focussed television channel (http://www.svbcttd.com/English.html )which keeps updating its daily programme, event availability, status of crowd waiting for darshan etc., and that comes handy for people to plan their visit.

The free distribution of food and milk are boons to devotees waiting for endless hours and to be fair to TTD, the quality of these freebies are on par with any other hotel worth its name in that area.

Over the years I have been watching the steady progress of TTD's services and I have never failed to wonder at their relentless pursuits on facility improvements. Despite my ardent appreciations, my recent attempt at making an Anga Pradakshinam at the hills made me realise the 'still wanting sides' of the temple management.

Over a year I was trying to get some authoritative details from the  website of TTD, but to no avail, though there are some other websites providing such details. I was running around everywhere, right from TTD centre in VN Road, T.Nagar, Chennai to calling Central Reception Office, Tirupati, Tirumala , but none could give confirmed information. Then after gathering some news from a friend's recent attempt at Anga Pradakshinam, we set out after just booking the accommodation.

Starting by around 6:30 AM in a car, after maneuvering through the tough Porur and Poonamallee traffic, we reached Tirumala by  11:30 and after checking into the room, headed straight to join the line waiting for the tokens to be issued for next day's Anga Pradakshinam. Though tickets are issued only by 2 PM, its better to be early, we were told. The ticket issue started sharp at 2 PM and the digital display at the counter maintained the countdown from the maximum of 750 thereby making those waiting in the line comfortable about their position. At the counter, one is insisted on Aadhaar card, which is made mandatory and its better not to laminate your card, as it threw up some issues while scanning. Then a token is issued with your photo captured there along with your fingerprint and  thereafter you are free until next morning. You can also get here a laddu token by paying Rs 10/- as against Rs 30/- or so outside. When enquired, about the dress code the counter staff confirmed that one can go with pyjamas or a full pant, but only with bare chest for males. For women, saree or Salwar with dupatta.

It is customary, though few say it is mandated but never confirmed by anyone in authority, that one takes a bath in the Pushkarani (tank near the temple) and go with wet clothes for the Anga Pradakshinam. Not willing to take a chance in the wee hours of the morning, we trekked the previous night to the starting point of Anga Pradakshinam , where the staff said pants are not allowed and males should come only with Dhoti (Veshti) and that it is not necessary to take a bath in the temple tank and one could even come after a bath at the room. So much of confusions and my attempts at looking for some display or board about the whole process proved futile.

We got up to an alarm at 11:30 PM and headed straight to the Pushkarani and after few enquiries, located the gate which would be opened for bathing. The gate was opened sharp at midnight and after a holy dip in the tank we were asked to go to a place where a board announced 'Anga Pradakshinam line'. It was raining hard and with the dip in the tank adding to the chillness , the TTD played its part in making the shivering devotees stand in the open under steady rain for sometime, though the devotion and fervour of the occasion made the devotees ignore these natural and manmade miseries.

Shivering devotees waiting in the line were made to shiver more with a security official announcing  that only those with their clothes wet after a bath will be allowed and if required we again need to have a bath and wet the cloth. The temple gates were thrown open by 3 AM and the ladies were first allowed and then male members. Despite all the hardships, insufficient information and ambiguous directions, the moment we started rolling on the floor chanting 'Govinda' all the hardships evaporated and within ten minutes the Anga Pradakshinam was done! The participants, some staggering, some having nausea and  throwing up, were again made to go out and join the line for a darshan offered free for this particular group of devotees. TTD could have avoided this and directed these to go straight for a darshan which could have been completed in the next 15 minutes rather than stretching it for another hour.

The idea behind writing this post is not to criticise the TTD but to give some suggestions for enhancement in their arrangements for this particular prarthana. TTD could certainly play a better role in helping the devotees prarthana for a roll !

More importantly, I do not wish people in future to again get lost in the sea of information and misguided directions and would like to list down some directives based on my experiences,  that could be useful. Of course, keeping in mind that TTD frequently changes such arrangements one would be well advised to check for the latest updates too:
  1. Book a room in Tirumala in advance-booking starts by about 90 days before (Check TTD website) 
  2. There are two slots to book a room Viz., of 0:00 to 12:00 hours, and 12:00 to midnight. Better book in the first one  so that you could check in even by 10 AM
  3. Token counter near Central Reception office opens at 2 PM sharp.. But be at the line for tokens , - atleast by around 12:30, to avoid disappointment.
  4. Production of Aadhaar Card as ID proof is a MUST and preferably have the same without lamination.
  5. Totally 750 tokens are issued every day for the Anga Pradakshinam next day (except on Thursdays, as Anga Pradakshinam is not allowed on Friday).
  6. Have some old newspapers handy as you may have to squat on the floor, while waiting in the line.
  7. Thereafter your job starts late in the night. Though I could see gents in full pants and jeans, its safer to go with a dhoti and a towel around the waist. For ladies, Saree or Salwar , where Dupatta is a must.
  8. Be at Pushkarani , near the left side of the temple entrance, by 11:45 and the tank is opened by midnight sharp. But, please check the previous day as on some days like Brahmotsavam, bathing at the tank is not permitted.
  9. The Anga Pradakshinam token is not to be made wet , as it has some bar code . Keep it in a small plastic cover and if you wish, you can also have some small currencies in this for Hundies.
  10. After the bath, be at temple tank or  in your room, better to head to the queue  in wet clothes. This helps in the absence of clear directions.
  11. After bath join the place marked 'ANGA PRADAKSHINAM LINE'
  12. Do not have any minor chain or dollars in your poonol as they could hinder , while you roll
  13. Better to have a light and non-spicy dinner without oil the previous night as many were seen throwing themselves up after the Anga Pradakshinam and some could not even complete it.
  14. Even if you feel uncomfortable, not to worry. A couple of hours of sleep after the Anga Pradakshinam will provide great relief and so head straight to your room after doing it.
These are some tips , based on my experience and I hope they are helpful.

Monday, February 15, 2016

The 'Mahaa' - 'Maha' experience

Having spent six decades without participating in the Kumbha Mela of south, I was not in favour of waiting for another twelve years and so decided to take the plunge into the holy Mahamaham tank at Kumbakonam (KMU) , this year. Though the holy day of 'Maha Maham' , observed once in every 12 years occurs only on the 22nd of February this year, we decided to plunge into the sacred waters early before the place and the water are 'dealt with' by the expected 5 million devotees by the end of this week. My eagerness to participate stemmed from my queries to the Kumbakonam based relatives last year was put into action with some active follow up that culminated in a 20 member group setting out to KMU on the 13th Feb a little after noon.

By the time the entire team was collected and the van could move out of the city it was around 3 PM and  after weathering some initial traffic snarls on the outskirts, the team enjoying the cosy comforts of AC and the constant passing of the 'munchers' reached KMU by 9:30 PM.

It was hard to get up at 4 AM the next day after enjoying the pleasing comforts offered by the selfless hosts of Ravi Swaminthan and family but egged on by the enthusiasm the group was up and ready at the tank by 6:30 AM. The place wore a festive look with the accompanying crawling vehicles, the customary whistle sound of the traffic cop and the usual attitude of the jaywalkers making it clear that the town will be theirs for the whole of next week.




The maha sankalpam was performed with religious fervour, as per the belief of the 'kartha' and due to the ebb and flow of the belief and passion which was more than the flow at the native Cauvery, none cribbed.



Stepping into the tank, the group went into a state of delirium and after taking a couple of immersions in the knee deep waters of the tank facing east and Kasi Viswanathar , people started settling down with some order being restored with sanity.


Though it is said that a holy dip in the tank is sufficient, due to availability of time and non-existence  of a milling crowd, we decided to visit all the holy 'Theerthams' inside the tank, which were around twenty in number. At each of these theerthams, water was being taken in a vessel from an almost filled well and people took either a bath or just a sprinkle. Being a part of the group we agreed to a system that one or two of us will draw the water and pour on other members, and that helped the elderly lot and also avoid crowding at the well. It took almost 90 minutes to complete such sprinkler baths from all the twenty odd wells and by the time we got out of the tank, fully purified, we were swaying with a little wag commenting 'ரொம்ப நேரம் தண்ணீலயே இருந்தா கொஞ்சம் தள்ளாடத்தான் செய்யும் ' !!

After we changed our wet clothes at a house opposite to the tank, we quickly decided against our earlier plans of visiting Kasi Viswanthar and Kumbeswarar temples, as we heard that there were milling crowd there. The decision was made more easier when one of our group members went missing for sometime and after we searched and retrieved him from the swelling crowd, people were only more eager to head back home. But to keep up with the practice of having a darshan of the lord after the holy dip, the locals wisely chose KOTTIYUR KOTEESWARAR temple, which proved to be a wonderful choice with less crowd  and a serene darshan .


The trip concluded with the group heading back by 2 PM with some well deserved sleep and the van speakers belting some latest number, the group was a happier lot reaching home by late hours of the day.

Some observations and suggestions:

1. The authorities have taken great effort , which I am told is an improved version over the last mahamaham. Kudos to them












2. But, I am afraid, it may not be sufficient. With the expected millions thronging the 6.2 acre tank, I guess something more could be done. Right now people are lead to the tank in a line and after that it is a free-for-all, with each group running its own way around the 20 wells in the tank. What the authorities could do is to erect barricades inside the tank in such a way that anyone going with the barricade will be lead to the wells one by one and exit at the last well. This could in a great way avoid a potential stampede. I am not sure why this is not being done (atleast so far).
3. The town looks spruced up with newly laid roads, buildings looking fresh with a coat of paint and also the smell of bleaching powder wreaking your nose everywhere shows that the civic authorities are up and alive.
4. Free offers are there for everywhere from drinking water to coffee, food etc., and the stalls are expected to be more with the D day approaching.
5. I could see a lot of policemen, with some senior officials under the shades escaping the sun that was looking to get angrier by the day.


6. Many 108 ambulances and water tankers were in evidence.

Despite all the hiccups, I felt it was worth the travel of 650 KMs in 30  hours, more for the holiness of the event, the experiences of a dip in the tank and the 20 odd wells and the excellent culinary offerings of our hots, which made everyone of us looking forward to 2028 !

God willing if we are here, we will be there !