An elaborate tour of the then Orissa (now Odisha) in 2016 appeared to be satisfying enough at that time (Details of my 2016 tour can be read at : https://kapalicanvas.blogspot.com/2016/11/eastword-ho.html ). But, a leisure analysis from the cool confines of home revealed that we hardly had a glimpse of Jagannathji at Puri as the jostling crowd pushing and pulling others was overwhelming and at that time we only wanted to get away from that human madness. From then on , another visit to this holy Kshetra was always on the card but then the following years were totally occupied by other unexplored territories of North and Western India including the Char Dham. Recent egging by the better half, brought this longing to the top of the bucket list and when Tirtha Yatra ( https://www.tirthayatra.org/ ) announced this weekend yatra to Puri, it was grabbed by us with all four hands.
Travelling is not easy, as with every year the age counter keeps ticking and the difference between 2016 and 2023 was very much felt when we set out on the 16th Dec, before the break of dawn for the weekend yatra, pushed more by the fervor, as the flight soared into the early morning skies eastward.
Bhubaneswar Airport decked up for the season |
Popular Sand Art of Odisha |
After a comfortable 90 minutes flight, we were more pleased to be welcomed by the smiling Yatra consultants M/s Anand Santhanamji and Panduranga Dasaji, than the Biju Patnaik International Airport of Bhubaneswar which was trying in vain to match the smiles of these consultants by decking up for the upcoming Christmas but fell by the way side when the not only good looking but also tasty breakfast was served to the group of 26 even at the airport .
Soon, we were on the road to Puri with the delightful narration of interesting facts about the yatra and Puri in particular by Ananthji and it was a tough ask trying to assimilate what he delivers and simultaneously wondering his fund of knowledge on the subject.
Welcome in the moving bus |
No wonder the ninety minute drive in pleasant weather just passed at the blink of the eye; yes we could not resist having forty winks after the 2 AM wakeup with the tasty kichadi breakfast and the lullaby by the comforts of the seats in the gleamingly new bus on the not so bad roads of Odisha.
Maha Prasad of Jagannathji |
Before the warm welcome at the clean and shining hotel was assimilated, Tirtha Yatra surprised the yatris by arranging the Maha Prasadam of Jagannathji to be served at our hotel. How fortunate we are to have this Mahaprasad at our own place ! Importance of Maha Prasadham can be realized from the popular belief that even if Jagannathji's Maha prasad is at a dog's mouth, one should not hesitate to snatch and devour it !
After the holy lunch the yatris were honoured by the pandit from the temple with valuable shawl and prasad, acknowledging our little contribution to the temple.
Blessed by the priest |
With the belly and heart full we proceeded in auto rickshaws to the nearby temple and the the sight of the long winding que viewed even from a distance was slightly bewildering. But the well connected yatra consultants managed to whisk us ahead in minutes and even amidst the din and bustle of the devotees loudly calling Jai Jagannath, Ananthji was able to deliver the Tirtha Yatra specialty of pravachan explaining the significance of the steps into the temple and how to identify the Yama step and other shilas! Slowly we were moving , rather pushed by the milling crowd, towards THE PLACE, the sanctum sanctorum. As we neared, the crowd was unmanageable and we were virtually being tossed around but clung on to the pre yatra briefing of focusing only on the Lord and not to get distracted by any other mundane matters like stomping on the legs, tugging of the dress etc., Prudently, as advised we didn't wear any gold item and carried no cash or purse to be snatched. The frenzied crowd was carrying us through but we decelerated at every push and managed to stay at the Sannidhanam to have a wonderful dharshan, though at one time we were even about to fall. Having filled our hearts with the glorious sights of Jagannathji, Baldevji and Subadra Matha, we came out panting but heart full of bliss. Our happiness was compounded when Ananthji arranged for one more dharshan , this time when almost our group was the first to enter and absorb the full bliss of the holy Lords and that marked the completion of the desire being carried on our shoulders for over seven years.
Backed by Jagannathji |
While we were catching the breath and still munching what had happened, Ananthji added his deep insight of the Sthala Puranam which enabled us to know about the tree from which Markandeya was hanging when the Maha Pralaya came and he identified the spot where His foot print could still be seen. He added that when one places the ears to the foot print one could still hear mildly the sound of the Pralaya. To our astonishment, we were standing bang opposite to this spot and but for such learned yatra consultants , one would have missed to see this puranically important place ; we were also led to identify and visit a hitherto unknown place such as ROHINI KUNDA, from where the pralaya is believed not only to start but also end. It was also interesting to hear the story about the significance of the posture of Jagannathji & others at this temple. It was believed that Rukini Devi was performing a dance asking Subadra devi to stand guard. But Subadra Devi was so immersed in the beauty of the dance that she failed to notice Jagannatha and Baldev walking in and they too were astonished at the beauty and were enjoying her dance by keeping their hands on their cheek, which explains their posture at the Puri temple. We retired for the night at the cozy hotel room with our hearts still brimming with the Jagannath dharshan scenes followed by a sumptuous dinner, which not surprisingly made us sleep the moment we hit the soft mattress.
View from Balcony |
The next day dawned to the blessed sight of the Gopuram of the temple even from the balcony of our room and along with this, the simple but tasty breakfast prepared the group for moving on.
After an hour's smooth drive, we reached the world famous Konark and the fresh energy helped us to overcome and walk through the milling crowd to the popular tourist spot. The septuagenarian ASI certified guide, engaged to walk us through the popular place claimed to have 40+ years of service in the industry, was not only fluent in his broken English but was also able to efficiently guide the group through some of the intricate carvings which one would have otherwise missed to notice. The old and wily guide did not only explain some of the erotic sculptures quoting Kama sutra positions but also managed to make the senior citizen couple to face each other and throw glances that would have made Vatsayana blush! The seniors filled group wriggled in embarrassment considering some young ones amongst us but found it hard to stifle the sheepish smile, perhaps recollecting some memories !
At the symbol of Konark |
Guide's prank |
Konark |
The long and rickety drive then , on a not so good road, could not not deter the group from dozing until we reached Bhubaneshwar where we were again treated to the Maha Prasadam at the Anant Baidyanath temple, where the prasadham cum lunch was being served to many groups, as per the prevalent practice in this part of the country.
The next visit of importance is to the famous Lingaraj temple, where again the efficient connection of the yatra consultants worked well in enabling all the yatris to do Abhishekam to Lingaraj and also a special dharshan of Shiva by slightly lifting the silver cover exposing the Salagrama above Lingaraj. It was followed by a short but delightful recital of the Sthala purana and importance of the Kshetram by the young and smart pundit.
Lingaraj Temple , Bhubaneshwar |
As for the crowd that left our dharshan unsatisfied years before, is there any change and what made us more satisfied now ? Nothing, if not same, it was more , atleast multiple times than in 2016. But then, this time we were matured in thoughts that if we are focused, other pulls around are not felt and that maturity and timely advice brought us to the reality !!
The satisfied yatris were then dropped at the Bhubaneshwar airport from where we dispersed with sweet memories of Jagannathji and Lingarajji lingering around us fresh even as we hit the bed by midnight despite the Konark memories, trying in vain to distract our thoughts !
Yatra consultants |